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Xieng Khouang


Location: Xieng Khoung is located 435 km northeast of the Vientiane capital. Most of the province’s landscape consists of steep mountains and green hills. Xiengkhouang Province offers the awesome beauty of high mountains and rugged karst formations.
Area: 15,800 sq km
Population:
Over 249 thousand habitants
Districts: Pek, Kham, Nonghed, Khoune, Morkmay, Phoukood, Phaxay, Thathom.
 

Overview

The Plain of Jars | Laos Northern Heritage
Be Inspired by Hidden Stories

The Plain of Jars is an archaeological landscape that combines ancient and contemporary history with authentic insights into Phuan, Hmong, Khmu and Tai Dam Cultures. Nature encounters are easily accessible yet of the beaten track.

Xieng_Khouang_1Visiting The Plain of Jars is a serene inspiration. The ritual burial jars with their minimalistic Iron Age aesthetics are an ever-present part of the landscape and the only remaining witnesses to a vanished civilization. Unlike Ancient Greece or the First Emperor of China that date from around the same time, we know very little about the civilization that created The Plain of Jars. There is neither a legend of Troy nor a Chinese Book of Songs that kept the memory alive. In more recent history a Secret War took place here. Constant aerial bombardments transformed the landscape - and often jar sites as well- into a Plain of Scars. Regardless, villagers found imaginative ways to rebuild their existence and often made the legacy of the war a resourceful part of their daily life. Bombs became spoons; and a distinct Xiengkhouang style of architecture was created that incorporates bomb shells as building material and décor for houses. The integrity of a culture that did not succumb to hardship but grew with its trials and yet preserved century old village traditions and beliefs is characteristic for The Plain of Jars. The stories you will uncover here are not immediately obvious to the naked eye. You will have to take your time to listen and open your heart to understand. But then something very rare will happen: You will realize that even today in a world that believes in “total knowledge” there will always remain hidden stories and places that will never be fully understood. We invite you to a journey to The Plain of Jars. Be inspired by hidden stories.

Iron Age
Xieng_Khouang_2Xiengkhouang and the enigmatic Plain of Jars make up one of the most important sites for studying the late prehistory of mainland Southeast Asia. While the ancient civilization that constructed the jars was flourishing, advances in agricultural production, the manufacturing of metals, and the organization of long-distance overland trade between India and China were also rapidly transforming local society and setting the stage for urbanization across the region. Mortuary practices associated with the jars consisting of both cremation and secondary burial suggest a highly-evolved local tradition of ritual, symbolism and metaphysics which persisted through to the kingdoms of the Angkor Period, long after the arrival of Hindu and Buddhist philosophies into Southeast Asia.

Xieng_Khouang_3Prehistoric material found at the Plain of Jars is still under study, and apparently spans a considerable period of time, with some dating from as early as 2000 BC. The bulk of the archaeological material, however, as well as the jars themselves appeared much later, dating to the early Iron Age between 500 BC and 500-800 AD. The closet archaeological parallels to the finds at the Plain of Jars appear to be Bronze and Iron Age materials from Dong Son in Viet Nam, Samrong Sen in Cambodia, and the Khorat Plateau in northeast Thailand. There are also similarities with the present-day city of Danang, as well as with sites in the North Cachar Hills of northeastern India where megalithic jar North exist. All of these similar sites date to approximately the same period-roughly 500 BC - 500 AD. Together they form a mosaic picture of a large area of upland Southeast Asia criss-crossed by traders, with the Xiengkhouang Plateau at its centre.

The Phuan Kingdom
Although little is known about the people that constructed the megalithic stone jars, an account of the area's history as it relates to the Tai Phuan and the lands they settled in Xiengkhouang is recorded in the Pongsawadan Meuang Phuan or the Muang Phuan Chronicles. The Tai Phuan are a Buddhist Tai-Lao ethnic group that migrated from what is today southern China and by the 13th century had formed an independent principality at the Plain of Jars that prospered from the overland trade in metals and forest products. In the mid-14th century, Muang Phuan was incorporated into the LaneXang Kingdom under Fa Ngum, though the Phuan were able to retain a high degree of autonomy. After Siam (Thailand) extended control to Lao territories east of the Mekong in the 1770's, Muang Phuan became a Siamese vassal state and also maintained tributary relations with Dai Viet (Viet Nam).

Siamese, Haw and French Invasions
Xieng_Khouang_4To exert greater control of the lands and people of Muang Phuan, the Siamese launched three separate campaigns (1777-1779, 1834-1836, 1875-1876) to resettle large parts of the Phuan population to the south to regions under firm Siamese control .

Subsequent invasions by Chinese marauders called "Haw" plundered Luang Prabang and Xieng Khouang, and the Franco-Siamese treaties of the 1890's placed Xiengkhouangunder colonial rule as part of French Indochina until briefly after World War II.

The Indochina Wars
During the Second Indochina War that raged in Laos during the 1960's and early 1970's Xiengkhouang suffered heavy aerial bombardment and intense ground battles due to its strategic importance. This conflict has left a deadly legacy of unexploded ordnance (UXO) which is still being cleared today. Since Laos gained full independence in 1975, Xiengkhouang and the Plain of Jars are enjoying peace and tranquility after centuries of conflict.

The original capital city, Muang Khoun, was almost totally obliterated by US bombing and consequently, the capital was moved to nearby Phonsavan. Of several Muang Khoun Buddhist temples built between the 16th and 19th century, only ruins remain. Vat Pia Vat, however, survived the bombing and can be visited.




HOW TO GET THERE
By plane
The nearest airport is in Phonsavan. Lao Airlines offers six flights a week in peak season and four flights in low season to Vientiane.

By bus
If you are travelling from Vientiane you can either take VIP buses or local buses. The buses leave from the northern bus terminal and take about 10-12 hours. Note: The roads are paved but there are plenty of serpentines. The bus trip from Vang Vieng takes 7-8 hours. Buses run daily from Luang Prabang via Route 13 and 7 and take 8 hours. You could also hire a minivan in either Luang Prabang or Vientiane.
Coming from Vinh or Hanoi in Vietnam visas are available on arrival at the Nam Ka border, which is open daily from 6:00 – 18:00. The bus from Vinh leaves four days a week and takes 12 hours, form Hanoi there is one bus per week.

Get around
To get to other towns in the province you can take local buses or pick-up trucks. Inside Phonsavan there are plenty of Tuk-Tuks, which might not be available without prior booking very early in the morning or late at night. A normal tour inside the town should cost 3000 to 10000 LAK. There are 9 travel agents in Phonsavan that arrange bike, motorbike and car rentals. A bike costs depending on quality from 20.000 Kip per day. You can rent mostly scooters for about 100.000 KIP. To rent a minivan costs about 50-80 USD, a 4WD costs over 100 USD. This includes or excludes gasoline, depending on the company. All prices vary hugely depending on season and availability.

Note: Tuk-Tuks are not allowed to take tourists to the Jar sites. You can visit the site with a certified guide or individually.



EVENTS AND FESTIVALS

Almost every month of the year there is either a local festival or celebration in Laos.The word for festival in Lao is boun, which also means doing good things in order to gain merit for subsequent lives. If you are in Xieng Khouang while any of the festivals are taking place you will surely be welcomed and asked to join the fun. Please feel free to participate, however remember that most of the festivals are based on religious beliefs, so your hosts will appreciate it if you respect local codes of behavior.

January-February
Kud Chin & Tet Viet (Chinese & Vietnamese New Year)
Chinese and Vietnamese Lunar New Year is celebrated with parties, fireworks and merit making at temples. Chinese and Vietnamese businesses usually close for three days.

April
Pi Mai Lao (Lao New Year)
During the week of 13-15 April the whole country celebrates. Buddha images are cleansed with sacred water and in the vats offerings of fruit and flowers are made. People take to the streets splashing water on one another and having parties everywhere. In Xieng Khouang some years boat races take place at the Supanouvong Lake. Be advised that during Pi Mai Lao most businesses and government offices are closed.

April-May
Boun Bang Fai (Rocket Festival)
Boun Bang Fai is a rainmaking and fertility festival that takes place just before the rainy season. Villagers make rockets from bamboo and homemade gunpowder and parade their colorful rockets noisily around the village before they are shot into the sky to ‘fertilize’ the clouds and bring rain which in turn feeds the rivers and fields.

July
Boun Khao Pansa (Buddhist Lent)
This festival, held on the full moon, marks the beginning of Buddhist lent, a three month period where monks are required to stay within their temple to pray and meditate. Lao men are traditionally ordained as monks during this time.

August
Boun Khao Padap Din
Special offerings are made to the deceased on the new moon of the 9th lunar month.

October Boun Ork Pansa
End of Buddhist Lent
Held on the full moon this festival celebrates the end of Buddhist lent. In the evening small banana-leaf boats called heua fai are launched at Nam Ngum and Supanouvong Lake filled with colorful incense, flowers, candles and a small amount of money to bring luck and prosperity.

December
Hmong New Year
Hmong New Year, Xieng Khouang’s most colorful festival attracts crowds of people from around the province as well as Hmong from overseas.The festival is celebrated either in December or January starting from the 15th day of the ascending moonto give thanks to ancestors and spirits at the end of the annual agricultural cycle. Traditionally it lasts ten days bringing people together from many villages, and it is here that young people typically find a husband or a wife. The special celebrations involve colorful displays of traditional costumes made from green, red and white silk and ornate silver jewelry. People enjoy the music of traditional Hmong instruments such as the teun-flute, Hmong khaen and leaf blowing. Other festivities include the Makkhon(cotton ball) throwing ceremony as part of a charming courting ritual, crossbow competitions and traditional games such as bull fighting and top spinning.

Khmu New Year is celebrated within the Khmu communities in late December following the annual rice harvest.

The Baci Ceremony
Spiritual and ritualistic practices are important to most Lao people. The Baci is an ancient pre-Buddhist ritual traditionally conducted by Tai speakers. The Baci is the most popular Lao traditional ceremony celebrated at special events, whether a marriage, a homecoming, a welcome, a birth, or even to help cure sickness. It involves the ritualistic tying of cotton threads to ensure blessings of the spirits on specific persons, activities, or places. It is an important gesture of reconciliation and is believed to restore the natural order of things.




SITES TO VISIT

Scenery and Landscape
Sunset Views. Climb up some of the UXO cleared hills around Phonsavan, such as the Old Cemetery or the War Memorials, Phou Padeng Resort (excellent French food and wine) or Phou Chan and enjoy sweeping views and splendid colors of the sunset.

There are several War Memorials in Phonsavan that were constructed to commemoreate the thousands of Pathet Lao soldiers who lost their lives during the Indochina Wars and to honour the Vietnamese soldiers who fought alongside them. Climb up the small hills and you will be rewarded with great views of the town and surrounding areas.Old Cemetery and Lake Jao Supanouvong. This large cemetery is located on a hill 1 km north of Phonsavan. What makes it unique is that Tai Dam animist tombs are mixed together with Catholic tombstones, Chinese graves and Lao Buddhist reliquary. The hill top offers sweeping views and is an ideal spot for watching the sun set of the green hills. The lake 3 km north of town is named in honor of Prince Supanouvong the first president of the Lao PDR. Once the site of the provincial jail, it is now a place for a quick retreat.

Social Activities
At the UXO-Visitor Information Center in the center of Phonsavan (opposite Craters restaurant) the Mines Advisory Group (MAG) informs about the UXO problematic in the province. MAG began its Lao program in 1994 and started the first internationally supported UXO clearance operation in Xieng Khouang. MAG works to help people to rebuild their lives and alleviates suffering by responding to the needs of conflict affected communities. Local staff has been training to clear away the brush, to use a metal detector and recognize ordnance. Their village assisted clearance approach allows communities to participate in the process. Open Mon - Fri 8:00-20:00 and Sat/Sun 16:00-20:00

Next door is the UXO Survivor Information Center run by the World Education Consortium that is supported by various American government organizations and foundations. There is a small exhibition about how people deal with an UXO accident afterward. World Education helps people to recreate their livelihood after they have been injured by a bomb accident. The center's staff are UXO survivors themselves and can be approached to explain about the life of UXO victims. Donations and shopping in the gift shop are highly welcome. The center is associated with the ministry of health and rehabilitation.

The SOS orphanage in Xieng Khouang was founded 1998 to take care of the many children who lost their parents in accidents related to UXO. Today 145 children live in 12 family houses. The associated kundergarten and primary school are open to local children. You are welcome to visit the center during office hours Mon - Fri from 8:00-16:00, Check in at the administration building first.

Weddings, a central part of local life in Xieng Khouang start in November, with the peak season being January and March, ending around June (they are never held during the inauspicious months of July – October, which is Buddhist lent, and February, the month of the dog). For those interested in joining a wedding reception, one can inquire at the Mueang Phouan Hotel and the Xieng Khouang Mai Hotel, which hold receptions quite often during the wedding season. It is advised, however, that you bring a healthy appetite for family-style Lao food and a willingness to dance, sing and be merry. A small monetary gift to the newlyweds, placed in a white envelope, is also appreciated. Remember to dress politely: long pants/skirt and a clean shirt that covers both shoulders and chest.

Badminton.For those in need of exercise or simply interested in taking part in one of Lao people’s favorite modern sports, the Xieng Khouang Mai Hotel also has badminton courts open to the public. Rackets are available for rent on the premises. Players are required to bring their own sporting attire.

Handicraft and Shopping
Typical local products from Phonsavan and the surrounding area include natural dyes and textiles decorated with patterns unique to each ethnic group, mulberry paper umbrellas, spoons made from war scrap and Hmong embroidery.In the villages the basket making is still of great importance. Basket work is traditionally performed by men. The typical Hmong shoulder baskets, which are used to carry food and goods are made from bamboo, another material used is rattan. A special drink is Mastake Whiskey made from Hed Wai, a highly valued mushroom from the pine forests of Xieng Khouang.

The local fresh food market is an excellent place to sample the variety of unique food that Xieng Khouang has to offer. The cool climate and high altitude of the province produces many food items and forest products that are not available in other parts of Laos, e.g. mushrooms, peaches, plums and passion fruit. Some people also sell exotic meats, such as bamboo rats or pheasants.

The Navang Craft Center is famous for woodcarving. This family business produces wood crafts made from scented Long Leng Wood (Fujian Cypress), a rare wood. You can watch the carvers work and buy souvenirs daily from 7:30-20:00.

The Mulberry Silk Farm of Lao Sericulture Co, a fair trade company, is dedicated to enabling Lao village silk producers in the Northern provinces to revive the art of high quality local silk production. Villagers are trained in sericulture, the process of raising silkworms, processing and improved weaving techniques and natural dying. Leaves, bark, vines, berries and seeds create colour choices to match virtually any taste. To learn about the whole process you are welcome to visit the farm. A self guided tour will lead you trough the center. Any purchase of souvenirs will help the local communities and enabling them to rise out of poverty. It is located in Ban Li (just west of Phonsavan on Route 7) and is open Mon - Sat 8:00 - 16:00.



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